|
|
They are the last hatch of the fall. The first hatch of spring. These tiny little bugs are kind enough to float for long stretches on the river, allowing trout to sip them down like a fine wine. Beginning with the flash of silver below the surface, followed by a porpoising dorsal fin, finishing up with the slurp of the adult, a Baetis hatch is a pleasure to watch.
 Click to Enlarge If you ask people their favorite fly for BWO hatches, you will undoubtably get lots of votes for tiny parachute Adams and pheasant tail nymphs. Most of the time these two flies will do the job. But these little bugs tend to show up on slow stretches of rivers. Even with tiny flies that are good imitations, you can get wonderfully, frustratingly finicky fish. Of course in slack water, even microscopic drag is enough to cause fish to ignore your offering and take the next natural to come by. So fine tippet and careful presentation is mandatory.
The first time I fished a Baetis hatch was on the upper section of Montana’s Rock Creek. Well above the crashing currents and huge boulders, the creek winds through meadows. Perfect for a beginning fisherman like me. I had started fishing just two years before. Every fish was a new experience. Every fly was new and exciting. A 40 year old babe in the woods, literally.
I had already experienced the joy of fishing a hatch with no clue what was going on. And fishing a hatch where it didn’t matter what I tied on, because they were just going to laugh at my fly. But at this place and time, I recognized the hatch and new what to use. And I even caught fish. It was quite a thrill.
These three flies are my favorites for Baetis hatches. I fish them behind a size 18 parachute Adams (where two-fly rigs are allowed). I usually start with the Kryastal Flash Baetis. If that doesn’t work, I think about the drift. I make certain that the fly approaches the fish with slack tippet. Often the hatch occurs in a pool with swirling currents. But if I have gotten good drifts and still no takers, I switch to the simplified pheasant tail. And if still no takers, the Barr’s Emerger.
If you ask me why that order, I just happen to have a reason. Actually two reasons. The Krystal Flash pattern is tough. It will take a lot of fish before it must be retired. That saves me time during a hatch. The second reason is that the Barr emerger, although a great fly, is a slow fly to tie. A lot of steps to put it togeter. When tying small flies, the fewer steps the better!
In the next three posts I will feature these flies.
 (click image to enlarge) I ususally fish freestone, cutthroat streams. I like dry flies and beautiful scenery with lots of solitude. But I have fished a few tailwaters and spring creeks. So I understand the need to fish tiny flies to discerning trout. Even after some experience and the usual magazine articles, I don’t feel that comfortable with fine tippet and sub-20 sized flies.
So when I came across a new book by midge masters, Rick Takahashi and Jerry Hubka, my eyebrows shot up and I grabbed it. It is called Modern Midges – Tying and Fishing the World’s Eost Effective Patterns . What a book! Physically it is impressive. 9 1/2″ by 10 1/2″, hard cover, and spiral bound to lie flat when tying. It weighs in over 3 pounds.
After only 6 pages of introduction, it jumps right into tying flies. Now that is my kind of book! The organization is logical and linear, following the life cycle of these little bugs.
- How to tie larva paterns. Then 20 pages of patterns
- How to tie pupa patterns. Then 83 pages of pupa patters.
- How to tie emerger patterns. Then 47 pages of emerger patterns.
- How to tie adult patterns. Then 18 pages of adult and cluster patterns.
 (click image to enlarge) Now that you are saturated in all the patterns you could ever want, starting on page 238 is a series of short articles by some of the biggest names in the fly fishing world. They
 (click image to enlarge) share insights and tips on using those patterns you just learned to tie. Wow.
The patterns are laid out six to a page so the pictures are large, razor sharp and easy to read. Sprinkled throughout are pictures of flyboxes with rows of beautiful flies; large fish with tiny flies in their jaw; and fishy water to drool over. The book is a refrence for midge fishing, but the tips in the back apply to any stream or lake you might fish.
If you are like me and need help learning to fish midges, or if you want more patterns to
arm yourself for battle, then this is the book for you. This is the kind of meaty reference book on which I’m happy to shell out my hard earned money. I know you will like it too.
As I mentioned earlier, the basic soft hackle – silk thread and a partridge feather – is just the start when it comes to soft hackled flies. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination. Let me share three of my favorite ribbing options.
I use Pearsall’s silk for most of my bodies. To increase the appearance of segmentation of the abdomen, a ribbing can be added. Here are three choices: tightly twisted tying silk, contrasting silk, fine gold wire.
-
-
Tying thread rib
-
-
Contrasting silk rib
-
-
Gold wire rib
These are just three of many choices to rib these flies. You can also rib with krystal flash, colored wire, tinsel, holographic tinsel, or any other material that strikes your fancy. The effect may be subtle, like when using the silk of the body material. Or dramatic if you choose to use a peacock herl to rib with. I suspect that many of our choices are based on our preferences, not the fish. But that is ok too.
I really like to tie up a fly that catches fish. Hard to beat that feeling. But I enjoy the beauty and textures of the fur, feathers and threads used to make those creations. Is fly tying an art, craft or a means to an end? It doesn’t matter. Fly tying is a great way to watch a football game, listen to music or just relax in your man cave.
As I sat down to replenish my soft hackles, I couldn’t help pausing to grab a photo of my Pearsall’s silk spools. I hope your time at the vice is as enjoyable as mine.
 Click image to enlarge
Ok, I admit it. I love fishing dry flies. For me, the strike is the big thrill in fly fishing. It’s better than landing or releasing a fish. The harder the strike, the greater the thrill. But if fish are being fussy, or I am not having luck during a hatch, I almost always open my box looking for a soft hackle. I am a soft hackle junkie.
 Click Image to Enlarge The Partridge and Orange is the one I tie on most often. It works any time of the day. Even during mayfly hatches and spinner falls, caddis hatches and caddis egg laying times. It just works. That is why it is still the most popular soft hackle after hundreds of years of use. T.E. Pritt, in his 1895 book, “Yorkshire Trout Flies” called it an “excellent killer”. Very high praise indeed. But he didn’t invent the fly. It was an old standard even then. Sylvester Nemes, in his books on soft hackled flies, attributed the earliest reference to the fly in “A Treatise of Fishing with an Angle” by Dame Juliana Berners in 1496. Over 500 years!
Tying Notes:
This is the recipe for the basic fly. In my next post, I will cover a few of the hundreds of variations and options you can choose to vary your fly. But even with just the basic fly you must choose which hook to use, what material for the body and what color partridge for the hackle. Choosing the hook is more for the fisherman than the fish. Wet fly, dry fly, nymph, all will work. The heavier the hook, the easier it will be to sink the fly if you are trying to get it sub-surface. If you are casting to rising fish, you might prefer a dry fly hook to keep it on the surface.
As indicated in the recipe, I use Pearsall’s Silk for my bodies. You will see below why that is my choice. Finally, you need to pick the feather for the hackle. Both light and dark partridge are used. If you are matching a specific hatch one color might be preferred. There is no wrong answer. Both work very well. Why not tie a few of each. You are only talking about a couple minutes and maybe 15 cents for your costs. Tie a dozen and blow a dollar or two.
Why Soft Hackle Flies work so well:
The pictures below show why I love Pearsall’s Silk. On the left is a picture of a Partridge and orange soft hackle right off the vice. On the right, the same fly has been dipped into a glass of water. You can click on the images to see a larger picture. The simple act of wetting the fly makes a dramatic difference in the look of the fly. As fly tiers we often forget this change. We fuss over tiny details and exact length of fibers, forgetting that once the fly is wet, what the fish sees is something much different. Also remember the effects of drifting on the surface or the actions of your retrieve. Everything we do will affect the way that fish see our imitation. It will be very different from our creation while it sits in our vise or fly box.
 Click to Enlarge  Click to Enlarge Look at how much more lifelike the wet fly appears. The silk is nearly translucent.
How many bugs have this dark amber body color? Millions and millions every hatch and spinner fall. This fly simply looks like food.
That is why the fly will continue to work, and why fly guys still tie and cast it after 500 years. What an endure legacy this fly hold.
Next time I will look at some of the many options in tying this wonderful pattern.
Such a long name for a simple, effective fly. This little beauty just looks like a bug and is eagerly taken by fish everywhere. Arising from the long heritage of the hare’s ear nymph, it has the added traits of the copper bead and dark partridge hackle. The bead helps it get down to the fish and the partridge makes it come to life. It works great as either a dropper fly or on a traditional nymphing rig.
 (Click image to enlarge) The toughest thing about this fly is it’s name. What should you call it? Hare’s ear soft hackle bead head, bead head hare’s ear soft hackle, soft hackle hare’s ear bead head, or soft hackle bead head hare’s ear? It doesn’t matter. The fly will catch fish whatever name you choose.
Tying notes:
I fish a size 14 most of the time. If you like more weight, you could tie it with a tungsten bead or add some wraps of lead. I usually add 3 or 4 turns of lead to slip into the bead to anchor it in place. That also provides a solid foundation to mount the partridge collar.
This is a quick fly to tie. While it has several ingredients, they aren’t hard steps. I think this fly fishes better when it isn’t tied too pretty. You want it to be shaggy. If the body looks too smooth, take out your dubbing brush, bodkin, Velcro, or whatever you like and scruff it up!
If you fish a standard hare’s ear nymph, give this soft hackle version a try. It has worked so well for me that I haven’t fished the traditional version in several years.
It is only right that I choose this fly for my first pattern. In the summer of 2000 a helpful fisherman on the St Mary’s River in Alberta, Canada gave me one to try. He told me it didn’t know the name or who first tied it, but that it worked great, eh. When I asked if that was elk hair, like in a Stimulator, he said: “Well maybe it should be, but I always use deer.” As a novice tier, I asked him why he used deer. “Because I have lots deer hair.”
 (Click image to enlarge) For a practical tier, that is reason enough.
By the end of the day, the fly was chewed and tattered, but still catching fish. I carefully tucked it away in my fly box to use as a pattern to tie from. I have used it ever since. I can’t begin to count the number of fish I’ve caught with it. Hundreds for sure. Maybe even thousands.
This fly excels in cutthroat water. Whether prospecting or sight fishing, trout just can’t resist it. In fast water they strike it with abandon. In slow, deep pools on the St. Joe River, it will bring the big boys up to the surface. In the spring it looks like a stonefly. In the summer, I guess it could be taken for a hopper. In the fall, it looks like an October Caddis. It just looks like fishy.
On rivers like the Clark Fork, it makes a great point fly. While riding low in the water, the deer hair wing floats all day long and will support any nymph dropper you want to use.
I needed a name for the fly. Unable to come up with anything better, I call it a Rusty Stim. It shares some of the stimulator traits: hair tail and wing, tapering head and hackle. Of course the change to deer and the wire ribbing instead of hackle over the abdomen diverge from it.
Tying Notes: Tying it is similar to a stimulator pattern. Using the fine wire rib instead of hackle enables the fly to ride low in the water like stoneflies and hoppers. My favorite dubbing is a mix of Aussum Possum burnt orange and Hairline Dubbin rust. I usually apply the hackle sparsely. Most of the flotation comes from the wing, so the hackle is for suggesting legs, not to support the fly.
I usually only tie this in a size 10. I’ve tried larger for October caddis and stoneflies, but didn’t notice any better strike rate, so I’ve gone to only the one size. Makes life easier.
Whether on the Joe, Kelly Creek, or anywhere trout hide out, you can count on the Rusty Stim to come through for you.
Starting this blog is like facing a new river. Especially if the river is large, it’s easy to be intimidated by all that water. You wonder where to begin, where to cast, where to wade, what fly to tie on. But if you are lucky, and if the river is a good stretch of water, you will catch some fish. Exploring her seams and eddies, learning the holding lies, experiencing the change of the seasons, the different hatches: these can fill a lifetime with memories.
If you are very lucky, you can form a bond with the river. The water becomes part of you. Every pool and seam hold memories of fish caught and missed. You rember seeing an otter playing by that outcrop of basalt. In the spring you return to find the huge old cotton wood tree where you caught that 21 inch cutthroat was finally undercut so far it has fallen across the river.
Even after years of friendship with a river, there is still a lot to learn together. This is fishing after all. Yesterday’s can’t-miss fly is a loser today. A stretch of beautiful water seems to be devoid of fish this year. That is the challenge, the frustration and the passion of fly fishing.
In this blog, I hope to explore my love of fly fishing and fly tying, mixing in a sprinkling of photography and other assorted topics as the spirit moves me. Drop by from time to time. We can share these things together.
As you wander through this site, remember all the pictures can be enlarged by clicking on them. And please leave comments and suggestions. I want this journal to be easy to explore and user-friendly.
 (Click image to enlarge)
|
|
